install t5 with or without bellhousing?
 

I just spent 2 hours trying to stab the tranny into the bellhousing. Just wont go. I dont have any reason to think anything is wrong, just a bear. Usually I keep the bell housing on the tranny. Can I leave the bell housing on the tranny and get it all to go in there? Anybody done that?

There could be a couple of reasons that it's a bear. And it all has to be perfectly aligned for it to slip together.

Use your clutch alignment tool to make sure the clutch disc is perfectly aligned. The alignment tool should slide easily in and out with just light finger pressure.

Get a couple 7/16"x3" bolts, cut the heads off and cut a screwdriver slot in the end. Put those in the two bottom holes of the bellhousing. Use those as guide studs to align the transmission.

If it's a new transmission, make sure it matches the bellhousing depth and bushing in the end of the crank. Ford used a variety of combinations; many of them very close to each other.

Ya, I doubt you'd find it eadier to install with the bell attached to the tranny. Worth buying the cheap HF tranny jack if you aren't using one.

I think I am going to spend some time measuring everything. This Tranny has not been on this engine before, and I did not source these parts. I got them from the previous owner. I have another tranny that definitely came out from behind a foxbody 5.0 I can compare too. I like that cut off bolt idea. I also am thinking about jacking up the front of the motor to tilt the bell housing down a little bit. I am not sure I am getting the back of the tranny up high enough. The shifter is wanting to contact the top of the hump about the same time I am trying to stab it.


thanks

Ok. The transmission is in. I used the cut down bolts to guide it (thanks .boB) And the other trick that was useful was to depress the clutch by installing a long bolt were the cable system attaches on the bellhousing, back to the fork and just tighten the bolt to actuate the clutch. Freeing up the clutch disk (after the input shaft is through it) allowed that last little bit so the input shaft would go into the bearing in the crank.

Great idea disengaging the clutch to slide the tranny in. I was having trouble getting mine in the last little bit too but I couldn't get enough leverage to move the clutch fork. Next time I'll just hook up the slave cylinder and get the wife to press the pedal.
You must be getting pretty close to first start.

Jason McCully is working on my harness. That and exhaust are the last big pieces of the puzzle. My drive train is installed now and I do not know of any reason it would have to come back out yet. I am now ready to drill holes into the car to attach the tranny brace. I am going to spend some time looking at clearances on everything, since drilling the holes to attach the tranny brace will hard locate everything. I am going to drill multiple additional holes through the brace into the car. Structurally, that brace is a big spring. I don't like it much but I am to lazy to build my own and I understand that it will do the job, especially if more bolts are added to help with flex.

To eliminate the springing I added through bolts on each side that go through the floor.

Did you make standoffs (or use washers) or did you scrunch the brace up tight to the floor? I won't be doing this till next spring, but my brace is a good half inch or more from the floor on the passenger side, and much further away on the drivers side.

I had spacer blocks from a different project that I used. Nice and solid.

I plan on using blocks or washers of some kind. My "frame rails" or what ever those sheet metal boxes are, are not in good shape. Someone tried to jack on them at some time. I am going to install the bolts through them. But I plan on putting (4) total extra bolts in. (1) on the flat floor area and (1) in the "hump" on each side. There are going to be a lot of blocks in there. I don't see a lot I can really do about pinion angle right now. I guess I will just have to revisit pinion angle if I have a vibration. I am checking a lot of areas for clearance. Anybody got any suggestions for places to check clearance or fit before I drill for the tranny brace.

i'd place the tranny brace as per instructions but use spacers like Jason did. You can still shim the tranny up at the tranny mount if you need to.

Yep, followed Martin instructions for initial mount. Then spaced/drilled additional supports in floor boards. I do have a few washers shimming up the tranny as well. Still have to get the rear end in to finalize tranny height adjustment.

Any suggestions about how to measure to assure the tranny and diff are pointed at each other correctly? Conceptually I understand what I need to do, but what tools do I use to compare angles? In practice I have gotten rid of a vibration on a 4WD truck by just shimming up and down the transmission mount. (trial and error).

Do a google search on "pinion angle" You'll find a good number of excellent articles, including pictures, diagrams, and videos.

On the passenger side the bolt can go right through the crossmember and the floor since its right up against it at that point. On the drivers side you would need to make a standoff of some type. I've only done the passenger side on mine and its made a night and day difference.

To adjust the pinion up and down use washers with slots cut in them so you don't need to take everything apart to adjust it. Really all you are doing is making sure the planes of the engine/trans matches those of the diff. Some angle at each end is actuall desired as it helps keep the universals lubricated.

-Jason

Tranybrace done
 

I got back to the project and installed the tranny brace and checked the pinion angle. I all looks very good. I had about .5 deg difference without any shimming. I ended up installing one additional bolt on each side through the floor.

Nice looking brace very well done! PS don't let these little trials and set backs get you down. 500 miles in you will forget all about them...