Cooling issues and solutions
 

So I have been driving the car around anf it likes to get hot. Thats what happens when you put in a big motor in a small space. :firedevil: I am about to add some AFR heads I bought of a forum member and want to address this overheating issue while she is down. My intent is to eventually get her on the track.

My radiator and condensor stack is built like Jason did in is original build. They are connected independently with fabricated brackets. I made sure the entire system is burped and operates as advertised. I also added some hood vents to help the hot air escape from under the hood.

2 things I would like to do next:

1. Add an oil cooler. While searching around for a long thin cooler to stick in the nose, I found some radiators with integrated oil coolers (both in one unit). Has anyone tried these or had experience with them? Trying to stick in a cooler that will not interfere with the radiator will be the problem. I was thinking a simle 3 or 5 row cooler.

2. Add larger fans. Anyone have the CFM rating for the fans with Martin's kit? And has anyone found slim line fans that fit and have larger CFM ratings?

Looking for other solutions people have tried. Thanks for the input.

Be sure that the grill opening is "sealed" to the radiator to allow all of the incoming air to actually go through the radiator & not around it. I am in the process of installing a smaller water pump pulley to increase flow.

This one:Auto Specialties Underdrive Water Pump Pulleys 520141 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing It is much smaller than the stock pulley, although the description says it is an underdrive type.

If you increase the water flow through the motor, dont forget the in line flow restrictor that was in stock mustangs. This will prevent your heater core from blowing out. If your heater core is bypassed, then your fine. Like this one.. Mustang Heater Core Flow Restrictor (79-04) - LatemodelRestoration.com

Incorrect timing or lean mixture will cause the engine to run hot.

Some temp gauges are not accurate.

+1 to this for sure. Ducting made a huge difference in mine. If you want to see my disaster and the fix go here: Jim and Jenna build diary, Miata LS1 Conversion: LS1 V8 Miata Cooling and Hood Venting 101

That got me through last year and this year I put a giant radiator and fan in and nothing I can do will get it over 200 now.

Mine is doing fine now, even after 30+ minutes on the track. Here's what I have going on up there:

Evans waterless coolant with a stock cap
High flow water pump
180 degree thermostat
fans on at 200, off at 195
ECU sensor located in the intake (gauge sender location), not the heater manifold pipe
Martin's fans behind the radiator as pullers, wired to go on at the same time
Fan shroud in the rear with Spal pressure relief flaps (4 of them)
fully ducted in the front including the area above the plastic bumper core
ducted on top with one of my radiator cowls
actual working hood weather striping on the leading edge of the hood
headlight buckets sealed from the engine bay (passenger side is an air box)
hood vents placed where the air actually extracts at speed, not where they look cool
Rear weather stripping (windshield cowl) in place (the MM instructions say to remove it)

As its currently set up I can use the ac in 95+degree weather and run track days without seeing coolant temps over 225. With all of the above in place but the cowls and headlight sealing I was seeing 250+ degrees after 15 minutes on the track. Basically you need to ensure that there is no way for air to get behind the radiator without going through it. Usual street temps are around 195.

-Jason