Is a 1992 F150 5.0 roller engine a decent choice?
 

Does anyone know if a 5.0 out of a 1992 Ford F150 would be a good engine for the conversion? I just called a guy on a complete 5.0, including intake, valve covers, etc. for $175.00. He said it is a roller motor. I've checked some other web sites and it seems that, starting in 1992, Ford began using roller engines in the F150.

The guy selling the engine said it ran when he pulled it two years ago and it has been stored inside. No guarantees, so a refresh will be necessary at a minimum. He wants $175 for everything from pan to valve covers, intake, and distributor.

I've never worked on an engine, so I thought this might be an affordable "training" exercise, but only if it will ultimately be a good base to build upon.

Thanks all.

Gary

You might say that a 302 is a 302, especially if it's a roller motor. However, for the swap, it has a few disadvantages. You will need a different intake, the truck is way too high, you will probably want to go with the short front dress, as in 91-93 Tbird, 94-95 Mustang, I'm pretty sure the ECM for a truck is different, some trucks have a front sump pan.

So you might look at it as a rebuildable long block for $150.

Mike

In your opinion, do you think it is worth it or should I just keep my eyes open for either a 90s Mustang 5.0, 96 Explorer, or 91-93 Tbird 5.0? :)

My opinion is that truck motors have too many downsides, I'd pass. But then, there's a local junkyard that has at least 6 5.0 V8 Tbirds just sitting there.

Mike

If we're just talking engines and NOT a complete car, would you buy a Tbird engine or a 1996 Explorer engine if the price and condition was the same for each?

Explorer. Better intake and heads and you could be the first to use the OBDII and dis. Or just get a Mustang distributor and A9L computer/harness.

There's alway something.

Mike

Or you could just get a Mustang, strip what you need, & sell the rest.

Mustangs aren't cheap around these parts . To find a v8 Mustang that has an engine in it, running or not, you're talking a thousand plus easy. Good ol' boys value them highly, so the price is up against alternatives. Of course, you're just a stone's throw from me, so maybe you know something I don't! :)

Post edit, edit.

Maybe some day I'll get to see your car tbone heller. I live in Buford.

A truck engine will work but is far from the best starting point. As mentined above, the intake is wrong, the cam is going to have to be swapped, the front accessories are all wrong and on top of that it may not be a "High Output" XXX block.

I still think the best donor is an Explorer. You get a good intake you can use, short front accesories you can use or sell for Fox stuff, a better starter, a better set of injectors, a better set of heads adn all you need to do to get it to run with a Fox a9l is a Mustang harness, a distributor and a Mustang cam.

If I were to do it again, expecially if I were to go over the standard 306 overbore, I would start with an Explorer engine, skip all the Fox engine control stuff and go right to an MS3 system so I could use the existing Explorer coils. I'd also contact me and talk me into building a plug-and-play MS3 harness for it.

-Jason

Love that last part Jason!

The cheapest I've found a salvage yard 1996 Explorer engine locally is $450.00. TBird 8.8 IRS axle assembly is $200.00. A standard 30 day guarantee that the engine will run, but that's about it. It appears I can buy a complete running Thunderbird, 1991 to 1993 vintage, with an HO motor, for about 800. If you were on a real tight budget, would you buy piecemeal (given higher prices in my area) or would you just get the Tbird, get the car built, and build the engine for more power later?

Keep in mind I do not plan to purchase a kit. I'll fabricate the front and rear sub-assemblies myself. I will purchase Martin's book and will probably buy a wiring harness from some talented gentleman up north (I'm in Georgia). :)

Bringing this one back from the dead, as 5.0Ls are not a dime-a-dozen any more. I like the idea of sourcing a 5.0L from a Thunderbird / Cougar or Explorer, as it is less likely to have been drag raced. I understand that the 94/95 Mustang 5.0L is the way to go as far as accessory drives go, and this post helped clue me in that the 91-93 T-bird / Cougar 5.0L accessory drives are the same. I basically need a core, as I plan to tear it down completely and rebuild, but want all the proper brackets, bolts, etc. without having to source them separately. Is the Explorer 5.0L the same from an accessory stand point? If so, I can look that direction. I don't care much about heads, intake, FE, etc., as I plan to run a carbed intake, aftermarket heads, and a throttle body FE system. Thanks!!

Hi I have used an explorer setup on my car complete with all the accessories and brackets on the factory position. It fits well...however the frame rail will need notching for the A/C compressor...not much but its required if retaining the alloy cast factory brackets. Also the extra height of the explorer intake will require the subframe to be dropped slightly (3/8) and the intake milled by 0.25 in. to clear the hood. Even then it will be very close.

Explorer engine has decent heads and intake, but as you wil lbe rebuilding AFR/TFS heads are much better and you will need a 70mm throttle body for 5.0L or 75-85mm for 331/347

As for intake, explorer intake is OK and is good for about 220 cfm of flow, great for the GT40P heads but not good enough for TFS/AFR heads. Something like a TFS R will flow 300cfm but is higher (11 inches vs 10.75 in) and will only clear the hood with 3 mm with above changes (milled and subframe dropped). I run the TFS R long runner manifold.

Cheers,

This is very helpful!! Thanks much for the response. So, looks like I am looking for a Thunderbird / Cougar or Explorer 5.0L. That should make them easier and less expensive to find.

Hey I just noticed you are going to run a carburetor intake.
So your hood clearance will be a non issue, dropping subframe or modifying hood may not be required at all. It also makes the wiring a LOT simpler :)

Just make sure that you get good heads and cam....if staying 5.0L and a daily driver use a cam between 218-228 deg duration @ 50 thou lift. For a stroker 224-236 deg duration. Lift to be 0.55-0.6 in. With spring about 150-160lb on the seat. Hydraulic roller cam only in billet steel is my choice. No flat tappets or austempered cores.

Also pistons to be forged (I like Mahle) ...good insurance.

if not a daily driver add another 5 deg of duration to the above numbers for cam sizing.

Carburation should be 600-750 cfm . I like the new Edelbrock AVS 2 carbs. Annular discharge boosters, nice metering jet system for easy tuning and will start first go every morning with electric choke. If you are pushing over 500hp you may need something more specialised. But the edelbrock will work a treat :)

Keep us posted :)

Thank you much for the additional tips - much appreciated! And I will be under 500hp for sure! :-)