2000 Miata with LS1 & T56 for sale, Tulsa OK - v8 Miata Forum - Home of the v8 Miata Conversion
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Old 07-20-2018, 11:44 AM   #1  
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Default 2000 Miata with LS1 & T56 for sale, Tulsa OK


Thanks for the interest.
I have decided NOT to sell the car at this time.

For Sale
2000 Miata Special Edition
LS1 / T56 6 speed conversion
$24,000 cash, no trades
Located in Tulsa Oklahoma

If you are interested please e-mail me at
[email protected]

113,XXX miles on the chassis
Currently 84,XXX miles on the engine



Other than the original Miata car and the 82,XXX mile salvage engine and the fully rebuilt & upgraded T56 transmission all conversion parts are new.
The car is for sale because the build process was one of the most interesting things I have ever done but now that it is completed the car just sits in the garage collecting dust.
I an not a hot rodder who thrashes cars or drives at anything other than a sane and legal speed so the car is a total waste of performance for me, but still very enjoyable to drive.

The factory gauges work and a pillar gauge pod with two gauges was installed as the factory gauges are not very accurate.If you are seriously interested I would suggest fully reading thru my build thread before asking additional questions.
The build thread can be seen here
https://www.v8miata.net/general-moto...d-getrag-3104/

I do not have a video of the car running and driving as I don't know how to imbed a video but send me a message and I would be happy to do one with my phone and e-mail it to interested buyers.
It sounds just like the video Flyin Miata did to show their exhaust system.
You can find their walkthrough on YouTube if interested.

This car is rust free and originally from Florida.
As best I can tell was a garage queen for the first 15 years of it's existence.
According to the Carfax report it was only involved in one small accident where it got rear ended with very minor cosmetic damage to the rear panel.
I bought the car in early 2016 with the intention of doing a V8 swap to the car.
To this end I wanted the cleanest car possible and wanted a car between 1999 and 2001 due to the sweet spot of being an NB with the simplest electrical connections possible to make the swap as uncomplicated as possible.The engine and transmission were purchased as salvage from Hawk Motorsports, an outfit that buys wrecked Camaro's and parts them out.
The donor car had 82,XXX miles and appears unmodified based on the pictures supplied by Hawk.
Based on the condition after receiving the drivetrain and doing an inspection, the engine and transmission were in outstanding condition.
Subsequent to that I had the transmission fully rebuilt and upgraded to Viper specs at Texas Drivetrain Performance.
The car was custom tuned with several chassis dyno runs and the chart can be found in the build thread.
It made 315 HP and 335 ft lbs. of torque, about normal for a stock LS1 from a 2000 Z28

List of most new parts listed in the same order as the build thread;
Flyin Miata V-MAXX Classic Coil Over shocks & springs
Flyin Miata radiator and fans
Starter
Flyin Miata windshield bottle relocation kit
Flyin Miata fuel pump upgrade kit with upgraded pump wiring circut
Flyin Miata oil pan and pickup
New Heater core and re-routed water hose lines
Flyin Miata upgraded rubber suspension bushings
Upgraded braided brake lines
V8 Roadster front subframe and motor mounts
Flyin Miata shifter handle
V8 Roadster rear subframe kit and axles for Getrag differential
New Getrag differential with 3.23 gear set
V8 Roadster subframe stiffeners with transmission mount
About 40 pounds of additional sound deadening and Lizard skin heat insulating spray
Willwood clutch hydrulic (? spelling) kit
Painless wiring extended length harness to allow ECU mounting in the passenger compartment
Odyssey extreme battery
Front accessory drive including alternator and AC compressor & new water pump
Flyin Miata stainless steel exhaust headers and full exhaust system (very high quality)
Power steering radiator added for power steering cooling
Flyin Miata shock tower support
Dynomat sound deadening sheeting in areas where Lizard Skin was not sprayed
Flyin Miata cold air intake
V8 Roadster fender braces
Flyin Miata hood latches
New 5.0 brand shifter assembly
Hood louvers from WRX fenders
Pillar gauge pod with aftermarket oil pressure and water temperature gauges
Lots of new small items such as plugs, wires, relays, fluids, etc.

At this time the AC is not connected as I have been contemplating removing the engine and installing a "Hot Cam" in order to gain about 60 HP.
My quandry is that I really love the way the car drives with the present camshaft but figure a new owner would probably prefer a more agressive cam with more horsepower.
The AC should not be connected until after the engine is in place without the possibility of removing it again.
The other thing not working is the cruise control.

Overall the car is a very nice solid driver quality car but not show quality.
The paint and interior and factory original and show some wear.
The paint has small rock chips on the hood and the paint job is normal factory quality, which is to say that it looks good from 10 feet away but you can find plenty of small imperfections and scratches upon close inspection.
The interior is also stock and 18 years old.
Well maintained but the leather seats could use recovering and some discoloration of the carpeting.
The top is either original or an older replacement.
When I bought the car it had a single small rip in one corner but that has turned into two rips (one in each corner) that I sewed and repaired to keep from ripping further.
They are age cracks in an 18 year old soft top.
The car has original Miata brakes, sway bars, and pretty much everything else not specifically involved in doing the drivetrain swap.
It has aftermarket 16" wheels with Continental All season 205-16 tires that have about 4000 miles on them.

E-mail me with any other questions.

Last edited by BGordon; 08-09-2018 at 01:29 PM.
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Old 07-20-2018, 01:37 PM   #2  
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For a person wanting to own a nice clean V8 swapped Miata but who does not have the time or skills or equipment to do the swap for themselves, this is a good choice.
My opinion is that it is a really great street car that is a sleeper.
Without opening the hood nobody expects it to have a V8 under the hood, which is the way I like it.
All the other V8 Miata's I have seen in person have been much more focused on track performance where my car is more focused towards street use.

A person can choose to leave it as is and have a nice daily driver car
-or-
they could do more to increase the handling and performance via tires/wheels, big brakes, bigger sway bars, roll bar, etc. to turn it into a play car at the expense of comfort.
-or-
they could address the paint and interior and shine it to the point of having a really nice custom Miata,

Having built hotrods over the years I find that once I build a car to my personal level of perfection my interest declines to the point where it just sits and collects dust.

In case anybody is wondering I am simply trying to sell the car for the actual dollars I have in it, nothing more.
The car has been a nice reliable driver that starts every time and does not exhibit any bad manners
It retains the look and feel of a factory Miata with a bunch more performance.
No leaks or puddles in the floor of the garage or strange smells from the engine compartment.
It gets good fuel mileage if you drive it easy.
On a 200 mile round trip it averaged 26 mpg but be aware the tune is set up for 91 octane fuel.
It has been driven a bit over 1000 miles since the engine was installed the last time and did need about 1/2 a quart of oil to top it off last time I checked the level.
It cruises at 1750 RPM at 70 mph on the highway in 6th gear, nice and easy.
The engine has a slight bit of surging while cruising at steady low RPM speeds but it is my understanding it has to do with the custom tune.
It also runs a bit richer that I would prefer but the guy doing the tune told me he prefers for the car to run just a hair rich so you do not have any issues with it running lean and burning up the motor.
This makes the tail pipe have a black sooty coating on the inside.
I try to remember to start it up and take a 30 minute drive at least once a week to keep everything nice and lubricated.
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