ekaske

For sale is my 1992 Monster Miata. The V8 Miata is complete and running and driving perfectly. The car was built using the Monster Miata manual by Martin Wilson. The engine is a rebuilt 5.0 (302) V8 from a 1996 Ford Explorer. The engine/trans have approximately 12,000 miles and the car has 129k miles. The car was painted last winter with both rear quarter panels replaced and new windshield. New tan top installed 2012 and the interior is in ok shape. Please call/text show contact info with any questions about the car. The following is a list of the build.

1992 Monster Miata CL link


You Tube video exhaust


Engine
• Rebuilt Ford 302 bored .30 (2013)
• GT 40 Intake
• GT 40 Heads
• Stock Mustang cam
• New stock oil pan
• New Summit Racing Street & Strip damper
• New Stock Flywheel (7/2014)
• New G3 Alternator (2013)
• New Starter (2013)
• New Dillion Radiator with pusher fans (2013)
• New Stock Distributor (2013)
• Headman block hugger headers with 02 sensors (2013)
• 2-1/4" exhaust with a couple glass packs and resonators
• No Smog
• New Battery
• 1989 Mustang A9L Computer and modified wire harness

Transmission & Differential
• Rebuilt T5 world Class from 1991 Mustang (2013)
• New Sachs Clutch (7/2014)
• New Hydraulic master, slave and braided clutch line (2013)
• Thunderbird 7.5 Differential (3.27 Open)
• Monster Miata Axles, hubs, differential hanger and pinion torque mounts (6/2014)
• Custom Driveshaft

Brakes
• 1995 Calipers
• Newer slotted rotors front and rear
• New front pads and rear pads (2013)

Suspension/Chassis/Tires
• Upgraded front and back sway bars (2014)
• New front springs (Ford Escort Springs rated for #300)
• Rear Springs swapped with front springs with one coil removed
• All Front bushings replaced (2013)
• New differential hanger bushings (6/2014)
• Chassis stiffened with steel frame rails and transmission mount
• Konig Silver Feather Rims 15 x 6.5 with new tires


To Do list
Upgrade struts
Upgrade to Dakota Digital speedometer and Tach (speedo is jumpy)
Hard Dog Roll Bar
Replace seat covers
Upgrade speakers

charchri4

The car is looking really good! I hope someone local buys it but if anyone from out state asks for a 3rd party inspection of the car I'm just a few hours away and would be glad to check it over.

mrmustang

It states you used the Martin Manual, but did you actually use his "K" member, or did you self modify it and the oil pan and transmission mounts yourself?


Bill S.

ekaske

I only used Martins rear end kit. The K frame was opened up on both sides to allow for the block hugger headers to pass thru.

charchri4

You have a build thread somewhere or any photos of the build in progress you can post up? DIY K frame and mounts makes a lot of folks uneasy for good reason.

mrmustang

Yup, 1 of my 6 previous cars was a DYI, the welds started to crack after 6 months on the road it it took twice as much $$$ to make it right afterwards. One of the main reasons why I asked, as it will also affect the price offered ($7,500) vs the asking price ($10,500) posted above. Knowing after seeing the quality of the welds in the picture that the car will have to come apart again to grind it down, reweld, or just bite the bullet and replace with a Martin modified K member.....Also knowing when I'm done, I'll be lucky to get 10K for it given the previous owners rust repairs.


Bill S.

ekaske

Jim - No build thread...spend my free time working on the Miata.

I completely understand the concerns regarding the K frame. The K frame was mounted to a jig to keep all points in there position. The sides were cut out and closed up with steel plates to allow room for the block hugger headers. Care was taken during the welding and alternating welds to keep the K frame warping. I added a 2" x 2" x 1/4" angle brace across the bottom where the tube steel mounts for the motor mounts. This was completed in the summer of 2012 and the motor was removed last winter to replace the oil pan and there were no cracks to the K frame. Oil pan was replaced because I was not able to get the oil pan gasket to seal. The pic of the K frame was at the very beginning of fitting the motor and the welds you see were redone.

Martin's K-frame would required modifying the exhaust and new headers for this build. If there was an issue with the K member I would just remove the motor and hire a certified welder for a few hundred bucks to reweld. (Thinking now I should of just had that done for everyone's piece of mind)

The rear quarters were completely cut out and the rust from the structural panel at the wheel wells was also cut out and replaced. (Not just the lower rockers) The body was completely sanded down, epoxy primer, sandable primer, epoxy again and finish paint.

rochesterricer

Why do these v8 Miatas keep showing up for sale near me now, when I'm not in the market for one? I guarantee the nearest one will be 1,000 miles away when I am in a position to buy haha.

mkory

I checked out the car this weekend as I was passing through Minneapolis. Erik was very informative and knowledgeable about the car and had nothing to hide. The car felt much more solid than other NAs I've driven. I'm not sure if this was due to the added steel (thicker steel?) on the K-member or on the frame rails, but it felt good. The welds look solid.

The body work appears well done. The paint looks great and is very smooth and shiny. The hood scoop is necessary to clear the intake. He said a stock hood would fit but it'd require a shorter oil pan and lowering the engine mounts. Definitely doable but it would require a bit of work. The scoop is very short and is in no way obtrusive.

Oh, and most importantly it's fast and sounds great!

Overall I'd say it's a well sorted car.

ekaske

Link to flickr Motor Swap


Link to flickr body & paint

ekaske

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