5.0 Miata

So I was under the car yesterday and was trying to adjust the clutch. Its a PITA, unless I remove the slave. The clutch is just barely engaging, probably within the last two inches of peddle travel.

My noobie question today is... Is it best to adjust the pushrod on the slave or the pushrod on the peddle? Or perhaps a combination of both?

Thanks,
Den

V8MiataMike

With help from the experienced folks on this site, I learned that you should start with the rod inside the car for the master. I adjusted mine so that it had very little preload on the master and the clutch pedal made it all the way to the floor stop. This provided maximum stroke from the master cylinder.

Then go to the slave and adjust the rod (with the slave fully retracted) to have just a tiny bit of preload - barely touching. Be sure to have all air bled from the system and should be good to go.

The slave in my car - a stock Miata slave - had a spring in it always pushing it out so it made it a bit tricky to ensure it was fully retracted when making the adjustment but doable.

I've got over 3K miles on the setup now with no further adjustments ever needed.

5.0 Miata

Thanks Mike, I'll give it a shot...

barrattboy72

I too am having a hell of a time adjusting my clutch. I have made all my adjustments at the slave rod. Either it shifts into gear fine but slips under load or it won't go into gear at all and that's with just a few turns on the slave rod. I guess I need to work on the master cylinder?

V8MiataMike

Be sure you are getting maximum stroke out of your master via the rod inside the car. Then be sure your slave rod is engaging the clutch fork at the right spot as well (the point that you drilled the new hole in the fork for the slave rod).

barrattboy72

Okay so I got the clutch to grab and not slip in all gears. Now I have a new problem. I did a hard shift from 1 to 2 at redline and the clutch stuck disengaged. I had to limp it home slipping the whole way about a 1/2 mile. Any ideas?

tbone heller

Most likely you damaged the pressure plate, or the throw out bearing is bound-up. Try to re-adjust & see what happens.

barrattboy72

I just spoke to Martin. Apparently the master cylinder that comes with the kit has a spring and check valve that needs to be removed. The check valve and spring in place during a hard fast shift will blow out the seal at the slave cylinder and that's what I did. Twice.

5.0 Miata

Hey barrattboy72, have you had any luck with the check valve? I am having a hell of a time getting my clutch adjusted as well. I think my issue might be a heat issue though. My slave is only about 2 inches from the exhaust pipe. Before I try to remount it, I thought it might be the check valve that you speak of.

Have you solved your issues?

Denis.

barrattboy72

TAKE THE CHECK VALVE AND SPRING OUT AND THROW IT AWAY!!! it was 100% the problem.

5.0 Miata

Where would I find the check valve? Can I get at it from the top of the master? There is nothing about it in the manual.

Thanks,
Denis

barrattboy72

Below the connection of the hose going to the slave there is a big nut, I think it's a 30mm, you can't miss it. Disconnect the slave hose and remove that nut. You will find a flat disc with holes in it and a spring below it. Take those two things out and reassemble and you will be good to go.

You will have to bleed the system afterward.

barrattboy72

....also, when making your clutch adjustments make sure that your slave cylinder is completely collapsed.

5.0 Miata

I know the nut you speak of. I will tackle this when I get home.

Thanks a bunch, hope this is the problem....

Denis

5.0 Miata

Here is a pic of the MC. No disc or spring... This MC came with my kit from Martin so I suspect he removed them prior to shipping. Ugh! This put me back to a heat issue.

I'm going to try wrapping the exhaust pipe and making an aluminum heat shield at that location and also try running a high temp DOT 5 fluid. Please, if anyone sees anything wrong with using DOT 5 please let me know. I will flush it well and it will not get mixed with the DOT 3 fluids.

I've had a few glimpses of what this thing is capable of, and it has exceeded my expectations. I can hardly wait until it is "sorted out"...

Thanks for the help,
Den

V8MiataMike

I don't recall any check valve in the MC that I got from Martin either. It has been working great since the day I installed it!

Den, what kind of heat problem? Heating the clutch Master cylinder? I did wrap my headers as a "just in case" precaution as well as heat tape wrapped the brake/fuel lines. Other then adding some brake fluid due to the rear caliper being removed, same old fluid. Even flogged the brakes pretty good up at the Mitty back in April with no problems.

Mike

5.0 Miata

My clutch slave cylinder is only about 3/4 inch from my exhaust pipe. I let the vehicle cool for about 45 minutes and checked things. The exhaust was cold, but the slave cylinder was still very hot to the touch. I removed the slave and the piston is very tight, I don't know if excessive heat may have broken down the rubber seal? I never did like the way that it sat there. Martins slave bracket was offset instead of 90 degrees it was probably 110 degrees. I am using a 94 T5z which has a longer bell housing, that might have something to do with it as well, the clutch fork isn't in the same place. I am in the process of relocating the slave so it will be a few inches away from the exhaust pipe.

I will let you know how that turns out...

Den

5.0 Miata

Preliminary results are very promising. I have relocated the slave. It is now set into the bell housing by about 3/4 inch. This gets it away from the exhaust pipe, I now have a full 2 3/4 inch clearance and it lines up so much better. I am also using the DOT 5 high temp fluid as well. The clutch now feels very smooth and shifts perfectly. Tomorrow I'll get it out in the heat and see how it works out...

Denis

V8MiataMike

I started with the 94/5 bell housing too and although I know others have used it, I just did not like the required additional firewall clearancing (to keep the engine as far back as I wanted) and the location of the slave cylinder. I went with the Fox body bell (much smaller and higher slave cylinder location) and used the 5/8 spacer adapter to accommodate the longer input shaft 94/5 T5 trans I already had.

movieboy4fun

5.0 Miata

These little shields work great

5.0MX5

movieboy4fun, that's nice little shield. Where would one purchase?

movieboy4fun

5.0MX5
I have to admit I copied the idea from another site, I purchased the exhaust clamps from "ATP Turbo" and then bent the two standoffs which I spot welded to the exhaust band and then spot welded on the curved shield. I made the spot welder from an old Micro wave transformer and a little inventing.

I would give thanks to the original poster but I have no idea whom it is.

Great Idea, just wanted to share.

thanks
Dean0

5.0 Miata

After an hour on the road the clutch is still working great. It almost feels like the original Miata clutch! Much better alignment with the clutch fork and I don't think the exhaust is bothering it. I really like the heat shields you made up, I'm going to have to make at least one, probably another for where the fuel lines are. Where would a fella get them clamps in the lower mainland?

Thanks,
Den

movieboy4fun

5.0 Miata
The clamps are just the better Stainless Steel clamps that are sold for holding the rubber / silicone boost piping to the steel piping in a turbocharged application. I would try "LORDCO" or a Ricer Turbo Supplier, if it's a NO GO for you just shoot me a txt and the size of your exhaust pipe and I will dig through my supplies, may not be super shiny but I am sure I have a few, depending on your tubing OD.
Can defiantly hook a brother up!!

Very cool you were out for an hr, any takers off of the lights, lol.

Dean0

tbone heller

You can find a very similar worm clamp/heat shield securing the fuel filter under many Ford cars & trucks. Check your local junkyard.