movieboy4fun

Start of my Sub Frame Connector 2.0 install, much happier with fit verses my previous attempt with 14 ga 2" X 2" tubing. Going to build a small tool that will allow me to spread the top out a bit before I weld things up. The original Mazda floor stiffener rails are tapered wider at the top then the bottom. Possibly add a bit of body glue / seam sealer between the new and old.

Open channel along top inside will allow me to gain access to the inside of the rail to mount blind nuts for trans cross member install, etc..

Any hot rodder that lives in a winter climate with traditional tubing sub frame connectors knows the weather is brutal on closed frame rails. This will allow me to seal the rails against moisture before I cap off the inside.

Notched in for strength

Small amount of flange plier work and things will fit perfect for welding

Did I mention I HATE under coating

Tranny in position

Tad more work with the flange pliers

Quick break to enjoy the last of our sun here in Kelowna, BC. Entrance to local 1/8th mile track behind me.

Start on shifter handle, used an old shock mount for a 80 Chev Blazer for shifter base and an old RAZO shift ****. Good luck bending that, lol


Bottom of aluminum extension may require shaping yet to clear Rubber Shifter Boot / Seal

More to come!!!!

caprikid22

Hey. Im new to the miata scene but not to mustangs. I have a perfect donor car, 91 base 1.6 manual it has new koni suspension entire kit springs and all. Roll bar, racing harness. I have an 85 capri 5.0ho a t5 an aod and a 7.5 rear (if needed). Whats the next cheapest step to do the swap

movieboy4fun

Hello caprikid22

Not really the thread to answer your question, I would start a new thread and ask this question, but here are my thoughts. Cool on the existing 91 and extra goodies, this question really depends on your welding / Fab skills. You will need a front subframe; aftermarket or modded stock, oil pan; modded, headers, trans mount, frame stiffeners, driveshaft, clutch mods, new independent rear pumpkin, rear axles / hubs, front springs?, shifter handle and a ton of patience. I have built a lot of Hot Rods / vintage stangs and none have tested me like this little project has. Be prepared to spend at least 250 hrs of your time and more money then you thought. Read and ask advise, chances are somebody had been there done that and will help you towards a solution. Kudos to those that have decided to make this their first Hot Rod project, I would say this project is an easy 8 out of 10 for difficulty. The only other project I have worked on as difficult is an Art Morrison Framed model A with an Injected,( Modded Hilborn), 454 and 9" rear, 24" flange to flange, she got steamrollers out back, lol. Good Luck and don't be afraid to ask questions.

PS - Back in early 90's I had an ISMA prepped 85 T-Bird I added stretched Capri flares to, was a fun car till I drove her off the end of a hairpin at speed. First lesson in being aware of when it rains and pea gravel gets washed out on the pavement. Turned wheel and nothing happened but driving straight off the end, brakes useless too. Lesson learned, lived to party another day.

Party on!!
Dean0

movieboy4fun

Few more pics.
As you may have noticed I like to save my final welding for all at once. I am a wood worker mainly, (Journeyman), so I have to commit my money making woodwork to my shop space. I either have to wait for a sunny calm day outside or spend a few hours cleaning the shop so I don't risk burning her to the ground, lol. I am planning a weld session soon and will update results, but for now please enjoy my ideas and fit up.

Start of rear end mounting brackets
Using the 99 Cobra bracket with Maximum Motorsports Urethane Bushing

Piece of 1/8" stock bent in vice over two pieces of 2" angle iron

Going to add another piece of plate on the back yet to reinforce joint to sub-frame

Front mount pattern, taking to local metal shop I have connection with and will use their tools after hours to shape pieces.

New tabs for my 90 rear sub-frame, going to use BMW's Cruciform idea for bracing.


Going to use a piece of 3/16" aluminum plate shaped like 1/4" MDF in pic below. Going to be a challenge to snake my planned single 3" exhaust, however I am sure I can make it fit

One of my main shop work horses, works well for when I build my mandrel bent exhaust.

I added the 1/4" aluminum table, easily unscrews


Keep moving forward
Dean0

movieboy4fun

Finished up my rear mount, now to level and set pinion angle to finish front off!
Brace laid out for cutting with band saw

In vise ready to fold stiffening tabs

Tabs Bent

Test fit to find where to slightly bent to match sub-frame

Few Close - ups of fit


Couple holes to lighten the load, hehe


Bit of grinding / clean up

Last test before welding



Having a good weekend
Dean0

movieboy4fun

Finished most of the lay out for my planned cruciform under the rear. I will be adding scallops to the side as well, possibly eliminate planned holes in favour of a larger scallop to clear the planned single 3" exhaust. I know I won't be tricking anybody, lol. might choose center out and build a custom sail panel, I do work in a go-fast boat fiberglass shop after all.

3" cardboard mock up for available mandrel bends. Looks like 1 - 4"R 90 with 1.5" legs and 2- 3"R 45's will fit the bill just perfect.

lots of room, try fitting a pair of blown big blocks in a back of a go fast deep V-Hull boat, loads of room here.

Down under the axle CV stub shaft, away from the rubber, Do plan on making a custom heat shield.

View out back, looks like I will be turning a quick 90 here so the factory hanger will be right where I need it. COOL!! at least 1 thing won't neet to be modded.

I had time to bend up some 3/16" plate for front mounts. Factory Cobra IRS mounts were only 1/8" so I deemed 1/4" way to heavy. Its always about the weight, that is why we put big engines in small cars.

Will do a bit of shaping tonight to remove what I can.

Maximum Motorsport 99-04 Cobra IRS urethane mounts. Measure different than stock 3/4" - 3/4" spacing, they are 7/8" - 5/8". I will mount with the thicker side to my new flange that way I can flip bushing and shim if I need to adjust.

9ga 2" reinforcing plate, will add a few weight holes after mounts are fabbed

Currently sitting at 1 degree to match engine down angle.

will update soon with more progress

movieboy4fun

Just going to add a few more pics to the pile. I am just waiting for a chunk of 4" pipe to build my trans mount. I must not be asking the right people,lol. Seems like a hard thing for me to find. Welding shop has lots of cast pipe but no chunks of thick wall 4" steel pipe.
Front mount fit up, drivers side

coped to sub-frame

Side profile, tapered the bracket from 3" to 2 1/4" at top

Passenger Side

Bushing installed, will drill mounting hole after welding up

Same idea on the Drivers side

Front view with stiffening bracket installed. Going to trim a bit of weight yet.

All important measurement for the curious.

now the grinding and clean up begins. Very excited that I will have the major running gear work done and I can set her on wheels to roll around. Going to start working on the roll bar next. I want to go with a double hoop but I also want to add door bars. Still working on my idea, might skip the door bar for just a sill bar. Door bars are a pain in a street car but when I was 20 that was OK, now I am 50 and they suck,LOL.

movieboy4fun

Just to add the last bit of Fab work on the front mount before I start welding.

other side

Complete with speed holes, LOL

I am very pleased how all of this has turned out, the last decision I have to make is whether to just TIG up the hole in my rear cover or order the Maximum Motorsports Rear cover and get it over with.

I would then be forced to install a rear oil cooler, and prolly a good idea over the long run with the 3 inch exhaust passing so close. The cool factor alone is good for me just not sure where I would locate the heat ex-changer.

movieboy4fun

Now that the rear mounts are fabbed up I want to focus my attention on the cracked rear cover. I knew there was damage to that side when I bought the original 99 IRS rear sub-frame as both the axle CV was trashed and the trailing arm was welded, ( Roughly), I asked the owner if there was any thing else wrong and he said, " Nope All Good". Got it home and notice a bit of undercoating sprayed on the outside of the rear cover, little laquer thinner later and below is what I have to work with. Test my TIG skilz for sure. Going to drill a small hole at the end of each crack to help stop it and clean out the crack with my coping saw. Wire brush with acetone and fire up the TIG. Will be the first time to TIG Al, done it lots with a torch but that was 25 years ago. Can't wait to give er a go.
Gear set covered with rag to help keep out the grime. Will check backlash before I put cover back on.

View of epoxy on inside

Close up on the inside

At least four cracks to chase, gotta grab some glowing ink yet and a black light see how far the cracks go.

Inside view

View from the rear of my front rear end mounts. Welding very soon

Still looking for a piece of 4" steel pipe for my trans cross member, I will find some eventually, hate to have to buy 20', lol. Roll bar idea is also growing, must order up some 1 3/4 round stock. Keep moving forward !!

tbone heller

I replaced a lot of those differential covers back when I did all of the differential work at the Ford dealer. Since you appear to have some pretty good fabrication skills, you may want to replicate this brace from Steeda: Steeda 1999-04 Cobra Mustang IRS Differential Cover Brace 555-8118 | Free Shipping!

cvx_20

Or, if it's not too late, take a look at the mounting scheme for the late model Explorer 8.8. Pretty sure the cover will fit your diff.

Also, this outfit, as well as some others, will cut a foot of pipe and ship it to you. Too bad you're in Canada. You might choke on the shipping

ASTM A513 1020 Drawn Over Mandrel (DOM) Steel Round Tube | Buy Online | Cut to Size | No Minimum Order

Personally, I would go with 1/2" wall

Mike

movieboy4fun

tbone
Ultimately I think I would like to add a "steeda like" cover brace along with an oil cooler set up, but to be honest I think the current set up will work fine. The mx5 is so much lighter I feel quite confident the urethane bushing upgrade will do the trick. I have already taken a bit of heat in another thread for using the 99 cobra rear bracket and not the proven tried and true method. Guess I like to learn the hard way. If it is a problem then I will bite the bullet and just change the rear mount, I do have a chunk of 4" aluminum angle that I was going to originally use. I just hate the idea of the hidden nuts up in the sub frame, asking for issues in the future. That's just me. I think the cover was broken in an accident as the axle on that side and rear trailing arm were both broken as well when I purchased the IRS setup. I am only thinking 320 or so HP, but a shot of squeeze might be in order. The TIG work will be for practice mainly, I did see the local Pick n Pull had a few Tbirds / Cougars for the picking so think I will just go grab a cover, just being lazy.
cvx_20
Thanks for the link, I went to a shop today after work and they had what I was looking for. I also choose to go with 1/2" as 3/8" did appear to be a bit light. As to the Explorer cover, I plan on trying that set up in round two. I have located a LS3 for a good deal so I am sure the Explorer Mounts will fit my needs better.
Thanks again for the input
Dean0

movieboy4fun

Few quick pics of my welding, getting close to bolting on the wheels..
Rear mount

Inside View

Front IRS Mounts

Center including front brace tacks

Other side

Top View

Like to wrap weld around 1/2" while still hot. I feel it helps with strength. Took me a bit to figure out why the extra splatter, my machine usually welds very clean, OOOPS!! forgot I was welding stainless last, good strong joints now, will switch wire for frame connector 2.0.

Rear View, very pleased with how things turned out

Front View looks good too

Bottom of Rear about 1/4" higher than lower control arm pick up points, perfect, exactly what I wanted.

Cruciform Mount

All four welded in place, amazing how stiff this small mod made things

Front engine mounts, Drivers Side

Passenger Side

Painted up ready for Test fit and exhaust fit up.

Time for a nice cold Brew and a soak in the Hottub
Try and get Frame rails welded in yet this week.

jrmotorsports55

Looks great!

movieboy4fun

Squeeze these updates in while I grill the turkey for Thanksgiving dinner.
Cut a small clearance notch to clear rear cover brace in sub frame

Same for front of Pumpkin, pics make it look closer than it is


Sat out in the rain last night, under a tarp of course

looks $EXY in there!!

Engine sits 1.25" offset to passenger side, 1 degree down angle

I love laying on my back in the rain, hehe, much harder to install engine / trans with mounts welded in.

Only casualty seems to be the passenger engine mount was slightly twisted when I welded things up. I can live with it... LOL

Test fitting new rear 04 SPORT brakes / calipers. Good thing I did as one rear caliper had a bent pin and was frozen in place. Took slide hammer to separate caliper from mount, will order new main pin from M4ZDA, just ground old pin down till it fit for testing.

Rubber brake lines till I get through inspection, don.t need the extra questions

all new hardware for mounting suspension / hubs. Was surprisingly cheap from M4zda dealer but then they are supporting my project, well my effort to find parts, like the stock 04 SPORT backing plates. With out me having to supply a VIN!!

Using the mounting bolts and washers for the rear end to hold the hub races together to roll around the shop.

Hardest part for me now is not to rush the assembly, so much more fun to assemble, hard not to rush.

Getting closer to testing those asphalt crayons
Dean0

movieboy4fun

Few more after dinner pics
Have to admit I am liking the 11" rear disc brakes. I have blue caliper paint to apply as RED is so over done and well it was the only color the wholesaler had in stock. Rims will look stellar powder coated Matte Black.

16" wheel with 205 / 45 series

12mm F-Body extended studs barley stick out, now to find some 12mm silicone jackets to protect the threads

very happy with my progress over the long weekend, I can see the end quickly approaching.

Dean0

movieboy4fun

Finished painting the sub frame


Brand new Caliper Pistons and rubbers

Thought "Why Not?" a pint of ceramic caliper paint goes a long ways

Front / Rear 04 sport brackets all painted up... will go powder coat next build

Tricky process getting those outer seals to cooperate, made me think real hard

Fronts greased / assembled / ready to mount -- that small pint of paint is maybe 1/3 empty, goes a long ways but does not flow out well, leaves a few brush strokes. Very Smelly and possibly the fumes had me painting way more than needed

As the rears were REMAN parts I did not completely disassemble to paint

Local shop had a sale on "Speed Bleeders", paid $7.50 for the 2 pair, fronts mounted in calipers.

Going to assemble the front and rear sub-frames and mount the wheels tomorrow. I need this project rolling as the snow is coming. Then I can roll the car into my shop for warmer / dryer work.
More soon
Dean0

movieboy4fun

Managed to install front sub-frame between wet spells and torqued mounts, except for suspension pivots, will torque once sitting on it's own shoes. Front Rotors are used, have a new set on the way so I can paint to match the rear

Front Wheels mounted

Just a hint of Caliper peeking through

Not sure how folks feel about the modified M4ZDA Symbol but I think I am going to cast up four new 52mm aluminum wheel centers with the " Flying M" and this will allow powder coating vs the stock plastic center cap. I also purchased the new 2015 MX5 rear badge and my local foundry buddy is going to cast up a " .0" in similar script so it will read " MX5.0". Trying to be a tad sneaky, lol.

Work has me leaving town for a week or so, more when I get back and hopefully dry inside my shop.

Dean0

movieboy4fun

Rear MX-5 Emblem from 2016, like the script wanting to add the .0

Rear Sport Calipers peeking through

All snugged up ready to set down

BIG DAY... been waiting almost a full year for this moment... too bad it all has to come apart one more time for paint.

4X4 mode achieved... low rider buddies already laughing at my "Dukes of Hazzard" set up. LOL

Looking Good to me, can still close stock hood, will have to cut bracing to clear filter.

Cowl bars back on to test fender interference, if any... all looks good so far

Found this oil cooler from an 87 F350 with 460... want to try and use, looks like it clears.

Problem is when I grabbed this 20 years ago from the junk yard I did not grab the block insert. Also found out F0RD does not carry that block adapter, (C9AZ-6890-A), any more, just the one on the right.

I want the one on the left, if anybody has this kicking around their shop and willing to throw in a bubble wrap envelope and mail it to me, I will happily pay a fair price.

More updates soon

Dean0

movieboy4fun

Starting to look more like a car now


Really happy with the fit of these aftermarket fenders, just dropped into place, no adjusting done yet.


Cowl Braces clear no problems

going to rotate front shock 180 so adjuster is facing the rear.


Keep Moving Forward
Dean0

movieboy4fun

Decided to use a fuel pump from a 84 V3TTE, seemed the easiest as I wanted an "in tank", low pressure pump. This is a C4RTER pump, Rated at 12 - 23 psi @ 50 GPH. Should be enough pump to supply my 650CFM H0LLEY and 150 shot of laughing gas. I had to build a new bottom bracket and I Silver Soldered in a new 3/8" steel supply line

3/8" brass elbow with a 3/8" barb adapter

Trying to find room to mount a "LINE L0C" and manual proportioning valve.

New to me E7TE heads to start hogging on, just waiting for my new burr kit to arrive. Happy I found a local rodder upgrading to GT40 pieces and it saved me a trip to the local DIY yard.

Happy, Happy Days, I found my oil cooler block adapter I needed, only cost me $15


Hope to get more welding done this weekend

Dean0

5.0MX5

Dean0 said "New to me E7TE heads to start hogging on, just waiting for my new burr kit to arrive. Happy I found a local rodder upgrading to GT40 pieces and it saved me a trip to the local DIY yard."

I started out with E7 heads and was happy with them till I found a deal on a new set of AFR 165s ($950 ish). With the stock 89 HO roller cam and stock heads the lit'l car seemed to pull harder with the E7's. Raising the rev limiter from 5 to 6k did help the AFRs and of course I wouldn't go back. Stock ain't always bad.

movieboy4fun

Hello 5.0MX5

I agree that stock AL heads will out flow a good set of ported stock iron heads any time. I am only using the iron heads as I want to keep it more bullet proof for the street and leave it as an option for the new owner to possibly do on their own. As I am using a stock 85 HO intake ( ported ), I wont need more flow than I can get from the E7 heads. I will be running a stock looking H0LLEY 4180 from same 85 GT, ( Choke blended off, 4150 secondary metering plate, and duel feed 4150 bowls), After a bit of blending and polish I expect to flow close to 700CFM. I will also sport 1.7 rockers and an E roller cam and chances are I will cut a 1.55 exhaust valve seat, seems to work well for the N02 gains. I know I can personally get this head to flow close to 200 CFM on the intake and 150 cfm on exhaust. I can prolly only make the intake manifold to flow 190 cfm haven't tried with a stocker. Got lots of practice with these heads on old race car, just trying to be a bit sneaky, that's all. Don't want to give out all my secrets, lets just say looks will be deceiving once finished.
Wanted to add, yes stock iron heads pull good to a certain HP, remember F0RDS like port velocity and iron heads assist with this, more velocity means more nitrous down the hole. I ran a 300hp hit on my ported E7 heads while my buddies with the aftermarket AL heads were getting nitrous hick-ups at the 250 HP level. Defiantly don't under estimate the iron heads.
Dean0

movieboy4fun

Oil cooler adapter mounted in place

Alternator / air pump bracket in place

F0RD F150 Master, 1 1/16" bore... looking for short throw for easier heel / toe fun!! Still planning "LINE L0C" / manual rear proportioning valve locations

Modified, ( Dropped tensioner 5/8"), for clearance. Small pulley on alt. from 86 GT

Water Pump pulley from 81 GT, modified for normal rotation 83 water pump,(83 with manual steering)

My old 63 F4LCON fan blade, look out fingers, my trusty drilling jig

Aftermarket lower pulley, all of the above out of my hoarding mustang junk pile. Figured smaller main pulley will help with sway bar clearance and the down sizing of the water and alternator pulleys should keep rotational speeds required for efficient operation.

Fairly small pulley, may have to increase size for city traffic or switch to electric pump.

Updated NA 90 dash with NB white needles, oil pressure added MPH speedo. Wanted the RSM signal so I can install cruise / log speed.

Old dash with red needles, broken fuel needle, scratched faces and I think the old odometer may have been rolled back.

I had to say YES to these 82 GT front fascia and light bar. I have been looking for this front end for 20 plus years. Going to copy lower front dam and see if I can adapt to MX5 project.

Will be used to turn my son's 90 convertible build into a 4 eye clone, I know the 4 eye purists are shuttering...LOL. I have the parts, that's why, HeHe

More updates soon

Dean0

MRM331

My first Mustang was a 1985 four-eye. I've always liked the look although it has its haters. I also had a 1987 with T-tops. That was a rare one.

How did you update the 1990 oil pressure gauge? I'm not sure about Canadian spec Miatas but the US ones had a real oil pressure gauge from 1990-1994 and a glorified idiot light from 1995 on. I'm actually planning on pulling my NB gauge from my 1999 and replacing it with a 1990 gauge and sender to make it actually read something when I do the LFX swap.

Looks good!

-Jason