MRM331

People asked and here it is, a build thread. I started my build this weekend and pretty much have the entire "removal" phase done. Next week I'll start modifying the bay for the 331 we're building.

Here's the car Saturday morning:



Here's the car Sunday night:



You can see everything that happened in between at:
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3855160

-Jason McCully

jwmezzanotte

awesome! I'll be following it!

irishvol

Thanks for the thread. I'll try to contribute as well if I can figure out how to upload pictures.

I've just begun my build. I'm using Boss Frog kit with Patriot Performance 383 stroker, 500hp small block. This is going to be a long process for me because of required $$$.

I am stripping my '90 down to bare bone and will rebuild piece by piece. I have my T56 but no other mechanicals at this point.

This weekend I continued working on the hood. Most of the underhood bracing has been removed and the surface sanded down to bare metal. Next step will be stripping the outer hood surface, priming and painting.

All of the secondary hood attachments (windshield washer container and associated fixtures) have been removed and througherly cleaned and preped for reinstallation.

Heretic

What size of tire is this vehicle wearing in the "before" photos?

MRM331

Hankook RS3's, size 225/40R15's on 6UL 15X8 rims. I purchased them that large for the eventual V8 but they surprisingly didn't bog the car down too bad for the few months I drove it with the 1.8 liter.

That said, I really wouldn't recommend anything over a 205 or maybe a 215 if it could be found for a stock, non-FI Miata.

-Jason

Heretic

I'm already past that. In anticipation of the forthcoming V8 (and also because I needed non-winter tires anyway), I swapped to 225/50-15 BFG g-Force Sports wrapped around Falken Hanabi 7" wheels. Despite the taller diameter, I felt that the tires didn't bog down my little 1.6L to any significant degree.





I adore these tires. For a street-driven car, I can't imagine a better tire for the price.

MRM331

I used BFG's on my first build and liked them well enough. It's cool they come form the good US of A and all. The car looks a little "tall" right now but I'm sure the V8 will take care of it

-Jason

chpmnsws6

So how much are you looking to sell this one for?

Laguna blue = 100% sexy

MRM331

To hit our normal "worthwhile" profit level it's going to have to sell for $26K to $30K. I'm not overly optimistic although we did get $23K for the last one. Maybe, if I can get the 331 to make 350 or so to the rear wheels, someone will see it as a worthwhile alternative to handing Flyin' Miata $30K + thier Miata + upgrades.

If not that will be OK too. I've spent the last 4 years building V8 Miatas but have only had one to drive for about 7 months of that time. We may actually use this one as our "model" and then build another 306 with the intention of selling it in the $23K range.

-Jason

chpmnsws6

It'd be well worth 26-30k once done! Keep updating it for us please

MRM331

I've updated the last five build days on my Cardomain site. Here are some highlights:

Saturday, May 8th (day Three):
Engine bay cutouts:


Rust Repair:


Front Subframe Removal:


Sunday, May 9th (day Four)
Rear Differential Found and Rescued:


Bushing Modification:


Thursday, May 13th (day Five)
Front Subframe Work:


Engine Bay Painting:


Saturday, May 15th (day six)
Rear Subframe mods and painting:


Oil Cooler Installation:


AC Condenser/Fan assembly construction:


Sunday, May 16th (day Seven)
factory Air Duct Mods:


Condenser/Fan Installation:


Fuel/Brake line rerouting and heat Shielding:


Check out the complete story at my cardomain page linked in the first post. Enjoy!

-Jason

jwmezzanotte

Great thread, helps a lot to see what goes where.
My car had ac installed at one time, but the previous owner took it off. I'm interested in having ac again at some point in the future, any tips for that install? Pics of anything hard to see after the engine is in?
I hope to work on that this winter (time? money?) so I'll probably have questions....

thanks

jwmezzanotte

nevermind.....should have finished reading first!

MRM331

The hardest part in the AC process is making the cooling fan go on with the AC clutch. I figured out how to do it in a NA01 (1990-93) and think I figured it out in this car. You never really know if a plan works though until you start the car up.

-Jason

jwmezzanotte

I'll have to ask questions about that then when i get to it

In the meantime I layed out all the parts and such on the bench and kinda mocked it up to see what im working with. I think i have all the pieces, but the condenser looks pretty beat up. Looks like someone pushed a screwdriver through the fins to open them up for more air flow or something. The cooling system was changed a few years ago, so the car probably had some cooling issues.
Im not sure whether the condenser leaks or not, but even if it doesn't i doubt it would work very well anymore. I looked through the Monster Miata build book, and judging by the pictures that's pretty much the set up i have (1990 miata). Id like to keep that setup since i have most of the pieces.

I emailed the previous owner, and he said that before he took it out the ac did work, but not well. Dont know where the issue was, but judging by the condition of the condenser that may be one, and maybe the system was leaking as well?
Been reading at miata.net about ac issues, If i go with a new (junk yard probably) condenser do i have to change the dryer as well? Said somewhere there in a post that it was recommended.
Can you charge an ac system yourself? Or does it need to be done at a shop?
do you think a used condenser is a bad idea? If not, got any idea what i should expect to pay for one?

thanks

MRM331

Always use a new dryer if the system is opened up. It's job is to collect moisture and once it's exposed to the environment it tries to do just that with the Earth's atmosphere. When you buy a new one it's actually "filled" with vacuum (I know, very bad wording technicaly) and capped. You only uncap it when you're ready to seal up the whole system. I use an old one for fabricating.

After working with both the 1990-93 condensor adn the later 1994-97 condensor I would say use the later if you have the choice. First, its a much better design and actually much lighter. Second, attaching the fans effectivly with zip ties was much easier than modifying the steel "supports" on the early one.

Get a new one from Rock Auto or contact planet Miata about getting a used one. I'm sure they wouldn't sell you one they know to be bad.

Dryer bottles are about $20 from Rock Auto. The rubber converson lines I can sell you:

http://www.mccullyracingmotors.com/i...es/AClines.htm


-Jason

chpmnsws6

When pulling the A/C system down to 28inches of vacuum, you boil out the water the system has accumulated, correct? I've always wondered why we take such precautions when we are boiling the water out anyway.

MRM331

I only do what I'm told by the guy I have charging the system. I figure $20 was not worth fighting about.

Besides, the new one is smaller and has it's own bracket!

-Jason

jwmezzanotte

Jason,

do you know if the different year condensers have different fittings?
The reason i ask is that the lines that the previous owner gave me look very similar to the ones on your website. The "appear" to be in good condition, although the metal fittings (90degree elbows etc) can be turned in the hoses by hand, not sloppy or loose, but they can be turned. is that normal?

If there is some question about the fittings of the condensers being different (if i have to buy one i'll go with the newer one) or the lines themselves I'll probably just hold off on it for now and start collecting new parts. (like new lines from McCully Racing Motors )
As it looks now I need a new condenser, dryer bottle, and possibly lines. Assuming my compressor still works (any way to check it? a bit of oil has leaked out of it in storage) everything else should probably be replaced?

What would have to be done to recharge the system when its put back together? Use R-12, or the R-134? does it matter? (If everything else is new im just wondering if it matters as far as what the compressor needs)


(I'm not sure if im making any sense, i only started reading about ac systems a few days ago, so this is all new to me. Definitely have more reading to do)

thanks for the info!

chpmnsws6

The compressor doesn't care if its 12 or 134.

Start another thread with pictures showing what you are talking about. We need to keep this one focused on MRM331's 4th build

irishvol

Please continue with picture and posts. I'm going to try to post some pictures of my progress but not much with the camera....Tony

chpmnsws6

You should make a build thread in here also!

Its much easier to see your great progress when its all wrapped up into one thread

MRM331

Update: Saturday, May 22nd, Day 8:

Front subframe assembly and installation:



Cheap Big Brake Installation:



Rear Subframe/Differential Assembly and Installation:



-Jason

New page can be seen: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3855160/10

MRM331

Agreed. Tony, you should start your own build thread so that other's don't get the two builds confused. That way you'd have a whole thread devoted to just your build!

-Jason

spartan717

Killer car build. You have a great eye for detail. That can be a rare thing among builders.